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Eze; a Medieval Walled City

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Eze, France
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Between Nice and Monaco, there are two major roads along the coast; a coastal road and a high road. They are both at the base of the Alps, both along the Mediterranean coast. On the high road is the medieval city of Eze. My friends who know me well, often groan at my old school use of the pun. But I can’t help myself 🙂 . So today, we did “Nice-n-Eze.” Seriously, Eze is pronouced with a so-called “short” e (Ez). With the possible exception of a perfume factory, Eze today, is essentially a tourist attraction. There is a very exclusive hotel which overlooks the ocean, but it appears mainly occupied by the very wealthy.

Eze, France
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

A completely walled, medieval village, it is photogenic, but challenging, as the entire village, built up onto a mountainside, is made up of narrow, steep, walled streets. This creates very tall, narrow spaces, with lots of lighting variations; especially shadows. While a took a number of photos as we walked through the walled village, I only made a handful that I thought enough of to post here, so this may be one of the shortest posts I have ever made.

Eze, France
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

We only spent a very short time here (maybe about an hour, before we were on to Monaco). At one time, Eze was a fortification because of its commanding view of the sea from the very highest point in the village. We did not climb all the way up this trip. As I write this blog entry, I can see it is not very inspired. I guess I just wasn’t “feeling” this one. I do think the village is worth at least a short trip and does afford some uniqued photographic opportunities.

The French Riviera – Nice

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Nice, France
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

No, that is not a play on words. 🙂 It is fair to say, though, that Nice is indeed, “nice.” Our next port of call was Monte Carlo, in Monaco, along the French Riviera. We had a long day there with our tour guide taking us to Nice, Eze, and Monaco. There is enough material here for 3 posts, so I will cover only Nice in this first installment. Monte Carlo is not a deepwater port and cruise ships (except for the very small ones), must anchor out and tender their passengers in. As we were to learn a day later, depending on the weather, this can be a challenge. In our case, the seas were calm and our French guide met us on shore where the tender landed.

It is fair to say, though, that Nice is indeed, “nice”

Whenever I have heard the term “French Riviera,” (or just “the Riviera”), I have thought of the south coast of France, and notably, places like Monte Carlo, San Tropez, and Cannes. I never gave much thought to the word, its meaning, or its origins. Until our guide asked us what “riviera” meant. At the end of or cruise, we were headed to what has been referred to in our cruise literature as “The Italian Riviera.” I thought it was simply their way of saying: “hey, our Mediterranean coast is pretty spectacular too.” 🙂

Nice, France
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Our guide informed us (nobody in our group seemed to know) that the word “riviera,” meant “where the mountains meet the sea.” My later research concludes that it is more general than that and refers to coastline (though most of the places it is used are certainly mountainous). And, it appears that the word “riviera,” is actually an Italian word. The French are more likely to refer to this spectacular area along the southern coast of France, as “Cote’ de Azur,” (or the Azure Coast). And from what we could see, when the sun shines, the Mediterranean is certainly a splendid azure color.

Nice, France
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

There appears to be no lack of scenic seaports and spectacular view along this coast and I would like, someday, to explore much more of it. For this day, we only had time for Nice and Monte Carlo. As we drove out of Monaco and into France, toward Nice, we passed the picturesque coastal town of Villefranche. We drove by and there was no opportunity to photograph or explore, but it went onto my checklist of places to visit.

Nice, France
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Originally settled by Greeks around 350 BC,  the first settlement was called Nikaia (after the Greek god, Nike). At some point Nice became the part of Sardinia (an island slightly smaller than Sicily; now a political region of Italy). Thus its roots are substantially Italian and the Italian language was once its official language. Ownership see-sawed back and forth between France and Italy until the mid 1800’s, when it became – more or less permanently – French.

Nice, France
Copyright, Andy Richards

Nice is strategically located on the Cote’ de Azur, just 8 miles from Monaco, and only about 20 miles from the French/Italian border. It sits at the southern base of The Alps, making it a sought-after location for outdoor enthusiasts of all descriptions, as well as a popular mediterranean winter and vacation destination. In the late 1800’s, Nice began to catch the attention of an increasing population of Enlish aristocrats, who began to winter there.

Nice, France
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Along the seacost, there is a wide promenade, known as “Promenade des Anglais” (the walkway of the English), largely because of this large influx of English citizens (and of course, their currency). I am certain that many remember the evening of July 14, 2016, when a large cargo truck hurtled into crowds of people celebrating Bastille Day on the Promenade des Anglais. This senseless and horrific attack resulted in the deaths of 86 people and the injury of 458 others. Unfortunately, like many other strategically located European destinations, Nice was no stranger to terrorist attacks. In 2003 double bombs were set off in Nice’s regional directorates of customs and the treasury, injuring sixteen people. I fear that these misguided and truly senseless actions will not go away in my lifetime. As we travel in Europe, we are ever mindful (and often reminded) of the potential for unrest and possibly violence.

Promenade des Anglais;
Nice, France
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

As we walked along the old streets our guide pointed out some landmarks and characteristics of old Nice. La Maison Auer was reputed to be British Queen Victoria’s favourite (see what I did there? 🙂 ) Chocolate Shop. Inside was very small, but with a generous selection of confections. We didn’t succumb to temptation (mainly because the tempuratures make it difficult to preserve it during the remainder of the day).

La Maison Auer Chocolate Shop;
Nice, France
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

We also learned that when many of the old buildings were constructed, owners did not always have the economic ability to install windows, balconies or doors on the building sides, and in an attempt to make it look stately, many of them were painted on, as seen in this building.

Nice, France
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

The seventh largest city in France (and second only to Marseilles along the French Riviera), Nice has a population of about 1 million. We saw very little of what must be a relatively large geographical municipality. Because of its continued popularity as a vacation and tourist destination, Nice’s airport is the third busiest in France, only after the two Parisian airports.

Nice, France
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

We spent our entire time there in the part of the city known as “Old Nice.” You would never dream that this was part of a 1 million population city. There is an engaging outdoor produce and flower market that stretches several blocks down the main street. On review, my images of the market were made mostly in poor light (and after the shots taken in other cities of the world – notably Venice – seem like more of the same, so my only image to show is the stack of flowers seen here).

Outdoor Market
Nice, France
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

 

 

Nice, France
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

There were, as has been our experience in most of Europe, many old streets with old architecture. The old city is clean, and seems safe. We walked around, spent some time at the market, and then took a break for some cappucino at a street front cafe along the market place before heading to our next destination, the medieval city of Eze.

Nice, France
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Mid-morning, our guide turned us loose for some time to explore on our own. After walking the streets for a bit, we found a cafe on the street next to the marketplace for some cappucino, wifi, and people watching. It seemed like a nice, quiet place to have a cup, and catch up. Do people actually read the paper these days? 🙂

Nice, France
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

 

Our Return to Barcelona

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Port of Barcelona
Barcelona, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

In 2015, we started a Mediterranean Cruise in Barcelona. It was our first cruise with our friends, Paul and Linda, and we had a lot of fun, getting to know each other even better, and seeing the sights and enjoying the food an drink along the way. We would cruise again together, soon. As we like to do, we flew into Barcelona, a couple days early, spending 2 nights in a hotel in the heart of Barcelona, along Avenue Diagonal, not far from the bustling “heart” of Barcelona’s Gothic Center.

Park Guell
Barcelona, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Our trip, unfortunately, began with some rainy weather, and our scheduled trip to Park Guell, a UNESCO “Cultural Heritage of Humanity,” was pretty much a washout.  Park Guell was originally founded by wealthy Barcelona resident in 1900, Eusebi Guell, to build what perhaps we would today call a “suburban planned development,” away from the metropolis of Barcelona. Friends with famed and popular Barcelona architecht, Antoni Gaudi, Guell commissioned Gaudi to design the park. The Park originally provided for 60 small building plots on which Guell envisioned English Estate style estate homes would be built. In addition, there would be a marketplace, a large viaduct to bring water, buildings to house carriages and vehicles, a common field for athletic and other activities, all in a very nature-oriented park-like setting. By 1914, it had become evident to the developers that the project was not economically viable. After Guell’s death the city of Barcelona purchased the grounds and in 1926, opened it as a park. Only two homes would ever be built. The other buildings were mostly completed or in various stages.

Park Guell
Barcelona, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Shortly after we arrived in the park in 2015, the skies opened up and a torrential downpour ensued. Huddled with perhaps several hundred other visitors under the roof of the marketplace, we watch rivers of water run down the stairs. It became quickly obvious to us that this would not be our day in the park. So in 2015, we again scheduled a visit, with a guided tour of the grounds. The tour was very interesting and I would recommend it-and a visit to the park-to anyone visting Barcelona. However, I quickly discovered it was not very amenable to serious photography. There were crowds, protective railings, construction, and many naturally obstructed views. If you are spending time in Barcelona, I would rate this as a medium on your “must-see” things to do (especially if you are interested in Antoni Gaudi). But photographically, plan for a few snapshots and just enjoy the visit to the park and learning experience. :-).

Mosaic Tiles
Park Guell
Barcelona, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

We were docked in Barcelona overnight, so we booked a walking history/tapas tour of the Gothic quarter. We recalled fondly, the tapas walking tour we took back in 2015 and were really looking forward to this one. Unlike our prior tour, it has a nice mix of history of the Gothic part of the old city, and food and drink. The Gothic Quarter is, we are told, where pretty much everything in terms of the social, bar, restaurant and entertainment experience happens in Barcelona. Walking around that evening, in addition to tasting some pretty good tappas foods and wines, we saw a lot of really inviting small restaurants along the quiet side streets. It really looks like we will need to go back and do some bar-hopping and eating there. I have always been impressed with how cities like Barcelona and Venica have managed to mix modern societal demand with the old Gothic traditions and architecture.

Montserrat
Barcelona, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Montserrat
Barcelona, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Partly because we had been to Barcelona for a few days previously, we decided to join a tour outside of the city, to Montserrat, a Benedictine Abbey which is set some 4000 feet about sea level, the highest point near Barcelona. According to the website, Wikitravel, Monserrat is perhaps the most important religious retreat in Catalonia, and groups of young people from throughout the region make overnight hikes at least once in their lives to watch the sunrise from the heights of Montserrat. The peak can be reached by funicular from the Abbey and the views are said to be spectacular. During this trip, we visited a couple Monasteries. When I read about Montserrat being referred to as an Abbey, I became curious. Perhaps the devout Catholics among you already knew this, but even after living 62 plus years, having various college degrees, being reasonably well-read and traveled, I did not know the difference between a Monastery and an Abbey. Wikipedia, once again, to the rescue 🙂 . An Abbey is a complex of buildings, whereas a monastery is generally one building. When you visit Montserrat, it becomes obvious, as there is much more than just a cathedral and/or housing for the monks.

View from Montserrat
Barcelona, Spain
Copyright ANdy Richards 2019

We were there during some significant demonstrations by a group espousing Catalonian independence (from Spain and from the European Union), which was causing severe and possibly dangerous travel conditions, and our tour guide was understandably nervous about the situation. He cut our tour short and we did not have time to take the funicular, or to see all of the other things there, including a museum and the famed “Black Madonna.” Montserrat (meaning “serrated mountains”) is also said to house the oldest (still working) publishing house in the world. We know we will be back to Barcelona in the future and we agreed we will take another day to visit Montserrat again; hopefully at greater leisure. We did have the pleasure of hearing the boy’s choir, a relatively famous choir, sing before we departed. But for this time, our guide proved to be prescient. We arrived back at the ship around 3:00 p.m. and joined some newfound friends on the back deck bar. Only shorly after (mabye an hour) some other new friends arrived and told us of their adventures on shore. We had just missed complete traffic gridlock by a half hour.

Port of Barcelona
Barcelona, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

The overnight docking gave a rare opportunity to do some night and very early morning shooting.

Port of Barcelona
Barcelona, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Port of Barcelona
Barcelona, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Barcelona has a lot to offer, and is a draw for us and we know we will be back to spend more time there in the near future.

Next Stop: Mallorca

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Peurto de Palma
Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Our next port of call was the Mallorcan city of Palma (Palma de Mallorca). Malllorca (Catalonian)or Majorca (English), is Latin for (and very loosely translated) the larger island (major). Mallorca is the largest island (and the second most populous) island of the Spanish Islands in the Mediterranean. European government is much older than our system of states in the U.S. There is significanly more history involved in them too – thousands of years (instead of a couple hundred in the U.S.). Spain is divided up into a number of “autonymous regions,” This apparently means at least a certain degree of self governance, while still being part of the Nation of Spain. Mallorca is part of the autonymous region called The Balearic Islands.

Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

From our travels we have learned that the Mediterranean region has seemingly endless islands that are very popular tourist and vacation destinations for citizens throughout Europe. The wonderful climate and geography certainly combines to make that the case. And Mallorca is clearly another favorite vacation destination for Europeans – with it share of pretty wealthy citizens. It is notable that the Spanish Royal Family maintains a vacation Palace there. We saw evidence of this wealth both in the port and in many of the homes in the City of Palma. Of course there were also many more indicators of moderate income citizens. We really only saw the city center, near the port.

Port of Palma
Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Our tour for the day involved a trip to Valldemossa, and then just a visit to the Cathedral de Mallorca. Afterward, we walked around the city center, and stopped to eat in one of the side-street restaurants, sampling the local version of tapas.

Village of Valldemossa
Mallorca, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Valldemossa is a village in Mallorca, dating back before the 13th century. It is perhaps most noted for the Carthusian Monastery (The Valldemossa Charterhouse) built in the 13th century. The monastery was originally built as a royal palace. In 1399 it was converted into a monastery by the Carthusian Monks.

Charterhouse, Valldemossa
Mallorca, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

The Charterhouse was known as a place of refuge. In 1838, composere and musician, Frederic Chopin, who was ill, traveled to Mallorca on the advice of his doctors, for a climate less harsh than his native Poland. After having difficulty finding quarters in Palma, he ultimately spent a winter (1838-39) in Valledmossa, living in part of the Charterhouse, with his mistress, the French writer, Amantine-Lucile-Aurore Dupin (perhaps better known by her pseudonmym, “George Sand”).

Depiction of Monk at Work
Charterhouse
Valldemossa, Mallorca
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Much of the Monastery today, houses historical information about Chopin. At the time, it was widely believed that Chopin suffered from Tuberculosis, and the local residents gave him a rather wide berth and cool reception. Chopin did compose a substantial amount of music while in residence there. Today, there is a daily piano performance of his music, which we were able to enjoy.

Sanctuary
Valldemossa, Mallorca
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

I was able to find some nice “small spaces” to photograph in and around the Monastery.

Monastery Courtyard
Valldemossa, Mallorca
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Monastery Garden
Valldemossa, Mallorca
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Monastery Grounds
Valledemossa, Mallorca
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Monastery
Valldemossa, Mallorca
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

After touring the Monastery, we spent some free time along the little village streets and enjoyed some local cappucino and Ensaïmada, a traditional sweet bread which is very popular on Mallorca.

Cafe, Valldemossa
Mallorca, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Valldemossa
Mallorca, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Residences
Valldemossa, Mallorca
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

We traveled back to Palma, to visit the Catedral de Palma, a Catalan Gothic style Cathedral. The cathedral was begun by King James I of Aragon in 1229, on the site of a Moorish-era mosque. It is an impressive structure, and one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in Europe. Like so many of the cathedrals we have visited in Europe, the Catedral de Palma was a work-in-progress. Not completed until 1601, a restoration was begun in the mid-1800’s. After some 50 years of “restoration,” it was still incomplete, and the owners contracted with famed Barcelona architect, Antoni Gaudi to complete the work. It is very interesting to tour this cathedral and see the original Gothic architecture, the more modern European modified “Gothic” work, and the unique influences of Gaudi. As I wrote shortly after our 2015 Barcelona visit, Gaudi’s work embraced nature and natural shapes and forms. Looking at his works in Barcelona, it difficult to fine a straight line anywhere. Some of this is evident in very subtle ways in the Catedral de Palma. In 1914, Gaudi abandonned the project, after an argument with the contractor. There may have been some egos involved. 🙂

Catedral de Palma
Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Catedral de Palma
Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

After walking the city streets for a while, we stopped for lunch.

 

Palma de Mallorca
Mallorca, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

After lunch, we headed back to our ship, and on to our next destination: Barcelona. Our return after our extended visit there in 2015 was much anticipated and would prove to be an adventure.

Palma de Mallorca
Mallorca, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Here We Go Again: Capri, Italy

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Isle of Capri
Naples, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

We seem to have ramped up our travel. This was our second trip to Europe in just a few months, both in 2019. I think we are done for this year. 🙂

Isle of Capri
Naples, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

I suppose every one is different, but this was a different cruise for us. In all but 2 other instances (we are “seasoned” travelers now, with 9 cruises and 2 other trips abroad over that past few years), we had friends traveling with us. This time we struck out on our own. And this time, we had fun, making the acquaintance of a number of other couples, from Europe, Australia, and the U.S. We almost always have a full “event” schedule on these cruises. This time, although we did join a few tours, a lot of the time was spent exploring and wandering on our own. This was true in Capri (as it was at the end, in La Spezia).

Isle of Capri
Naples, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Isle of Capri
Naples, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

A number of our ports did not necessarily have major “destination” or “must-see” things, which made it perhaps more interesting. Our first port was Naples. We have spent a fair amount of time in Naples during each of our Mediterranean Cruises, and felt like we had seen the highlights, including the Amalfi Coast and Sorrento. We have not been to Pompei (maybe next time). But I had alway heard that the Isle of Capri was beautiful, as well as being a known playground for the so-called “rich and famous.” So I wanted to see what it was all about.

Isle of Capri
Naples, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Isle of Capri
Naples, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Isle of Capri
Naples, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

With no particular agenda, we bought ferry tickets and set out for Capri. The Island is really quite large, and we only saw a small part of it. Our ferry landed in the main marina for the island; Marina Grande. There is another marina on the south side of the Island called Marina Piccola, and though we saw views of it from up in Capri, we didn’t venture down there. The two primary village attractions on Capri are the villages of Capri and Anacapri. Not having made any transportation arrangements, our short, day visit didn’t allow us to visit Anacapri, though my research tells me it is more of the same: spectacular views and typical European construction. Originally settled by the Greeks (it later was at one point a French holding, and eventually restored to Italy/Sicily), it reminded me of the settlements on the Greek Isles.

Isle of Capri
Naples, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Isle of Capri
Naples, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Isle of Capri
Naples, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

One thing we did miss (poor research on my part) was the so-called “Phoenecian Steps,” a stairway from Marina Grande to the top, build many years back by the Greek inhabitants. They apparently start close to where we landed, and then end at the top, near the border between Capri and Anacapri. We will look for them next time.  🙂 While these steps would require a rather vigorous climb, the top is actually rather easily reached by riding the funicular ($2 Euros each way) to the to and the Pietta Funiculara, in the middle of the Village of Capri. We walked for a couple hours, without any plan, not really venturing far from the main part of the village. The walkways were steep and winding, with plenty of great views of the Gulf of Naples.

Isle of Capri
Naples, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Isle of Capri
Naples, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

I was not disappointed in my assessment of the village. In its heart, there were many high-end shops and restaurants. However, as we ventured of the main streets, we found many quiet and pretty scenes. Photographically, I think this trip was – in part – about finding unique scenes, and my image curating and processing is bearing that out. A large percentage of my shots are not “iconic,” but rather of quiet, discrete and pretty scenes I came upon as we wandered.

Isle of Capri
Naples, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Isle of Capri
Naples, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Liverpool; Not JUST the Birthplace of “The Beatles”

Liverpool Port
Liverpool, England
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Interestingly, our cruise was labeled a “British Isles” Cruise. Yet it was a 12 day cruise in which we really technically only spent 3 days in the UK. We also spent another 4 days in The Republic of Ireland. While it might be appropriate to call the Island of Ireland “The British Isles,” I think the majority of them would disagree.

The Vooo Lounge
Liverpool, England
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Be that as it may, with our pre-cruise days in and around Dublin, we certainly spent over half of our time in Europe in Ireland and Britain. The day following our Northern Ireland adventure, we sailed across the Irish Sea, to Liverpool, England. Perception often varies from reality, and my (admittedly ignorant) opinion of Liverpool was no exception. For my Michigander friends, I was thinking Flint (sorry to you Flintstones 🙂 ); to a perhaps broader audience, Newark (no, not Ohio 🙂 ). But I was wrong (as perhaps a visit to either Newark or Flint with one “in the know” might also prove).

Liverpool, England
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

The primary focus of our day at shore was, not surprisingly, a several hour-long “Beatles” tour. But we were to also learn that Liverpool was an important seaport (particularly historically), and a rather thriving city, with some very impressive architecture, and an active pub and distillery culture.

Liverpool, England
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Liverpool, England
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Liverpool, England
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Granted “borough” status by King John in 1207, it did not obtain its British City Charter 1880. Liverpool replaced nearby Chester, which was on the River Dee and further inland, as the major port for world trade with Britain, around 1207 ant thereafter was Britain’s primary northern port. During the Industrial Revolution, it served as a port and became a first-world manufacturing city. Liverpool also served as the point of departure for British and Irish Emmigrants – mostly to the U.S. In earlier times, Liverpool Port played a significant role in the Atlantic Slave Trade. While probably not among its prouder historical accomplishments, the result was a very diverse city, including not only influence from Ireland and Wales, but the largest black population, and oldest Chinese population in Europe. Trade with the West Indies eventually exceeded trade with Ireland and other parts of Europe, and in 171, the first commercial “wet” dock was built in Liverpool.

Liverpool, England
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

The ensuing growth and the industrial revolution soon made Liverpool one of the wealthiest communities in Europe, its wealth surpassing that of London a number of times during the early 19th century.  In the 180s the city was often referred to as “the New York of Europe,” and was a sought-after destination well into the early 20th century, attracting immigrants from across Europe. During the Second World War, Liverpool became a critical strategic point. The city was heavily bombed by the Germans, suffering a blitz second only to London’s. The “Battle of the Atlantic,” which proved to be a turning point in the war, was planned, fought and won from Liverpool. Most of the U.S. Troops brought into the European theatre were brought through Liverpool Port.

Liverpool, England
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Liverpool, England
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Sadly, in the 1970s, largely due to significant changes in the shipping of cargo world-wide, Liverpool began a decline, and for a period had one of the largest unemployment rates in the world. Resilient, however, in the late 20th century, the Liverpool economy began to improve and has been on the upward curve ever since. As you drive through the city, it impresses you as a very middle to upper middle class city in places. With a population nearing 1/2 million, it is hard to believe that its population was only around 500 in the 1700s.

Ma Edgerton’s Pub
Liverpool, England
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

Our visit was focused heavily on The Beatles history. That deserves its own blog, which will come next time. After our tour, we spent some time in the very cool main Railroad Station, a couple of downtown pubs, including the Liverpool Gin Distillery, and The Alchemist (a unique UK chain originating in London, where food and mixology meet), before boarding our ship again in to return to the Island of Ireland.

Liverpool, England
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

In Search of “Tripod Holes”

The Colosseum is one of Rome’s “postcard” images. It is very difficult to get without crowds and often repair/construction scaffolding.
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

Ray Laskowitz’s comment on my recent post inspired me to think (and write) about this. His “been there, done that,” observation is insightful (as always).

This is probably my favorite shot in Rome. I turned away from the crowds and made “my own” image.
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

In the 1980’s and most of the ‘90’s, photography was a very different world. There were – seemingly – two different photographer groups out there: The serious (including pro) shooters with “sophisticated” equipment, training and experience, and “point & shoot” camera-toting tourists (not meant in a pejorative sense).

This is my hands on favorite shot in Venice. The “postcard” image would include The Grand Canal and perhaps the Ponte Rialto, where the crowds can be unbearable. This one was made early in the morning, on a back canal.
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

We used film. The point & shooters used color negative film and had prints made at the local drugstore. The serious shooters used a variety, including black and white, and color slides. Most of us had our developing done by either a local or mail-order photo processor. The serious among us worked hard for our images, scouting and studying locations and other photographs we saw. But there weren’t very many of us, and except for the very most popular sites, it was pretty normal to either have it to yourself or only be sharing with one or two other shooters on any given day.

Differing accounts put the number of “smartphones” in the world in use at between 2.5 and 3 billion. Billion!

And then came digital (of course, like all short writings, this is a bit of an oversimplification. But in general, I think these are valid observations). I have been as enthusiastic a cheerleader as anyone about the “digital photography revolution.” It has certainly made making images and showing them more convenient for me. And the “digital darkroom” has opened doors for me that I either couldn’t have opened, or at least not very easily.

The Golden Gate, of course, is the big bridge in San Francisco, and is perhaps the most famous and photographed bridge in the U.S. And, it is not too difficult to catch, since there are multiple perspectives to shoot it from. But “my” image is this one – The “Bay Bridge,” taken at first light, from the Embarcadero. I was there all alone.
Copyright Andy Richards 2011

But technology, we continue to learn, often comes at a cost. Differing accounts put the number of “smartphones” in the world in use at between 2.5 and 3 billion. Billion.

One approach I have always advocated is to get up close and look for a more intimate image. This – if you can do it – excludes crowds and other shooters, and is likely going to be “your own” take on a scene.
Copyright Andy Richards 2007

Compare that with about 5 million in 2000 (my research may be a bit questionable. I had a hard time finding this information, but this was from a site that gave numbers of shipments of digital still cameras during the years 1999- 2018. Presumably, this would include DSLR cameras).

With the right foreground, a sunset or sunrise can always add mood to an image. This is an example of a shot where nobody goes – but I did 🙂
Copyright Andy Richards 2018

Incorporate 3 billion smartphone users (they all have cameras, and so virtually all smartphone users have now replaced the “point & shooters” noted earlier), with the combustive growth of digital media and you have a true explosion of the conditions I mentioned in the early paragraphs of this blog. As I noted in the last blog, it is difficult for me to illustrate the difference between a small crowd of shooters in 2013 and absolute mob scene we encountered in 2017.

Honeymoon Island is a popular beach, but certainly not an “iconic” photo opportunity. But it IS a good photo opportunity for those famous Florida Gulf sunsets. The unrequested “pose” made this image a “keeper” for me
Copyright Andy Richards 2015

So what do we, as photographers, do now? I am as much a fan of the “postcard” iconic image as the next guy. Indeed, in an earlier phase of my photographic quest, I sought primarily those images. Even though somebody had already done it, I wanted to have “my own.” No apology for that.

I worked to get this “already done” image, even doing a bit of “photoshopping” to get it the way I wanted it.
Copyright Andy Richards 2014

However, there are some palpable certainties that come with the “new age” of digital and smartphones. One is that the opportunities to make these “postcard” images have gotten much, much more difficult. You will have to plan to be present at odd times (which can be difficult for a traveler that is not staying in a destination). You may have to fight the crowds, and thus, change the physical perspective of your images.

I have never been to the Jenne Farm, which is the most photographed barn in New England, but have heard the stories of having to “fight” for tripod position even before sunrise. Instead, my single favorite Vermont Barn scene is this one, which I learned about from a friend. There are not very many shots of it out there (yet).
Copyright Andy Richards 2010

And in the end, Ray is right. We need to get away from the crowds and the icons; away from the “tripod holes” already made by others. I have known it for some time, and my own shooting has (glacially, I admit) evolved in that direction. These days, I look for my own images of the place (those are much more, “my own” than a copy of the postcard shot). And many times those images are away from the crowds, or at the edges of the crowds. My best imagery seems to come when I can spend some time in a location and get out very early or be out late, when the tourists are in bed or in the bars and restaurants. Unfortunately, this is not always possible, because of our chosen method of travel, which often puts us into places during mid-day. Even so, I have found images when I have been looking for them.