Lighthouse – Belfast Harbor Belfast, Northern Ireland [Copyright Andy Richards 2023 All Rights Reserved]IN 2019, we had a cruise that began in Dublin and stopped for a day in Belfast. The prime “tourist” things to do in Belfast are mostly really not in Belfast at all. At least if you know you are only going to be there for one long day. We took a long day private tour up the Northern Ireland coastline, seeing such wonders at “Giant’s Causeway,” Dunluce Castle, The “Rope Bridge,” the “Dark Hedges, and Bushmills (both the village and the distillery). No regrets. It was a pretty great day!
Belfast Harbor – Belfast, Northern Ireland [Copyright Andy Richards 2023 All Rights Reserved]ON THAT day, because our driver was a young man who had grown up in Belfast right in the middle of “The Troubles,” even though we were mostly far from the city, we got a small bit of an education about those times. Enough to whet my appetite. I have since said to my wife several times that on our next opportunity to visit Belfast, I wanted to spend our time in the city, learn more about that period, and see some of the important sites. I was especially more interested, having seen the movie, Belfast in 2021. We were also interested in “The Titanic Experience.” Staying in the city seemed like a no-brainer for us this time.
An open gate along the Peace Walls Belfast, Northern Ireland [Copyright Andy Richards 2023 All Rights Reserved]THIS MORNING, we took one of the “Black Taxi” tours of the city, which concentrated mostly in the vicinity of the “Peace Walls.” The area was mainly between Falls Road and Shankill Road near the eastern part of town. We also spent some time on CrumlinRoad, where the famous Belfast Gaol (jail) stands. The wall running east and west along that area, divides the town between the “Protestants” and “Catholics.” According to several online sources, The Troubles was a period of intense conflict that lasted about 30 years, from the late 1960’s to 1998. But the conflict began many years before, and unfortunately, though much less “intense,” continues to exist even today. The wall is still there. The gates are still closed each evening and re-opened in the morning. There is still plenty of tension between the factions. At least according to our guide.
Peace Wall Belfast, Northern Ireland [Copyright Andy Richards 2023 All Rights Reserved]THESE DAYS, the conflict is mostly restricted to Northern Ireland, and perhaps most concentratedly, in Belfast. But during that period known as “The Troubles,” violence and conflict often reached out and away from Northern Ireland to other parts of Europe (mainly the U.K.). The violent bombings throughout Europe were my personal first exposure to the concept (and fact of) terrorism. It does appear though, that most of the violence (and in my view, senseless killing) did occur in Northern Ireland, and especially in and around Belfast.
A Neighborhood across the street from one of the Peace Walls – with its own “min-wall” Belfast, Northern Ireland [Copyright Andy Richards 2023 All Rights Reserved]MANY OF us superficially know the conflict to be disagreement between Catholics and Protestants. Presumably a religious issue. But that is a serious oversimplification of the conflict. Paradoxically, religion, while most often couched in terms of “love,” has been the engine for violence, war and killing from time immemorial. The “really bad stuff” probably started during the “Crusades,” a series of wars between Christians and Muslims during a 200-year period between the late 2nd and 4th centuries. Like all wars, though ostensibly for “honorable” reasons, they were justified as being over control of sites deemed to have religious significance to each side. But there were clearly major parts of these wars that were driven by power and wealth. In the 6th and 7th centuries, incredible genocide in the Caribbean of black African people (and in many cases those with mixed blood) and even between Catholic and Protestant members of the Caucasian race, was undertaken in the name of “religion.” Of course, in those days, the so-called “crown” in most European countries that controlled parts of the Caribbean were Catholic. And of course, we cannot forget the “horrific” genocide against Jewish and Black people world-wide, by Adolph Hitler. Baptized “Catholic,” it is probable that he didn’t practice any particular religion. There is a fair amount of disagreement among historians about his religious affiliation – if any. But this all shows that the violence, conflict and clamoring for power was really much more complicated than a “religious dispute.”
Memorial to Republican Paramilitary Member, Stevie McCrea Shankill Road – Belfast, Northern Ireland [Copyright Andy Richards 2023 All Rights Reserved]IN THE case of Ireland, the true dispute was over the status of the country, and its citizens. It was about whether it was to be controlled by England (the U.K.) or independent. And even that characterization proves to be an oversimplification. But it happened that the faction that wanted Ireland to remain part of the U.K., also happened to be protestants (originally probably from Ulster). They were/are referred to variously as “loyalist” or “unionist.” The faction favoring an independent Ireland happened to be mostly Catholic and were/are generally referred to as Irish Nationalists, or republicans. The “Protestant” and “Catholic” rift probably more realistically began back in the early part of the 1600s, when The Ulster Plantations were formed. Beginning with British King Henry VII and on through Queen Elizabeth in the mid-1500’s, the Tudor dynasty endeavored to conquer and subdue Ireland. At that time, Ireland was not really an organized nation, but was more of a tribal culture, with warlords controlling certain lands. Even after England eventually “controlled” Ireland, many of these native Irish did not recognize it and there was often brutal conflict. In 1609, sanctioned and backed by King James (at one time King of England, Scotland and Ireland), granted land to English and Scottish Planters in the Ulster Region of Northern Ireland. While there were many conflicts between them and the indigenous Irish, they eventually gained more or less complete control of the region. As part of the grant, these planters were required to be Protestant, English speaking, and loyal to the King. This created a near-automatic strong loyalty to the British crown. For the most part, the native, Gaelic population remained hostile to the plantations. This was, in all probability, the origin of the Protestant-Catholic tensions in Northern Ireland – and “The Troubles” of the 20th century.
Memorial for IRA Bombing of Bayardo Bar in 1975 Belfast, Northern Ireland [Copyright Andy Richards 2023 All Rights Reserved]ADDING TO the complexity, during the ensuing years, there was more and more posturing by the Irish natives for representation in British Parliament, and eventually, independence. After years of conflict and war, in the 1920, Ireland ultimately mostly gained its independence. But the Ulster provinces remained staunchly loyal and unionist, with the result being the division of Ireland into The Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland, which remained a part of the U.K. Tensions between the two sides remained high. Catholic Republicans were the subject of discrimination and segregation. They lived mostly north of today’s “Peace Walls.” Over the years, leading up to “The Troubles,” many different organizations were founded, and the kind of “alphabet soup” of abbreviations are near-hopelessly confusing. What is more, the lines became blurred in many cases. Part of what precipitated “The Troubles” stemmed from what was supposed to be a peaceful demonstration in the North favoring unification of Ireland and independence of the entire country. The Northern Ireland Police Force, known at the time as The Royal Ulster Constabulary (RUC), held a reputation for brutality. They were at least 90% Protestant. They were sent against the demonstration, which resulted in violence. In reaction, Britain sent the British Military into Northern Ireland. More violence (this time inadvertently or not) precipitated by the British Military. This led to resentment of the British Military from Protestant and Catholic alike. In later years, as the paramilitary (terrorist) groups multiplied, there were differences between groups and even between members of groups. There is speculation, for example, that Stevie McKeague, once one of (loyalist) Ulster Defence Association (UDA) leader, Johnny Adair’s lieutenants, was actually killed by Adair (or on his instruction). There is speculation that this was over a so-called “love triangle. You can see why things got so complicated.
Belfast, Northern Ireland [Copyright Andy Richards 2023 All Rights Reserved]WE SPENT a good part of the day visiting both sides of the main Peace Wall in the Shankill Area. We visited memorials to both sides. We saw murals. We saw (and signed) the wall. We saw the gates. And we heard the stories (many of which continue into today). Men on both sides of this conflict who celebrated and thrived on the violent deaths of their “enemies.” Countrymen all. It is sad. It is terrifying. It is moving.
Sinn Fein Headquarters Belfast, Northern Ireland [Copyright Andy Richards 2023 All Rights Reserved]FOLLOWING THAT intense morning, our driver dropped us off at a kind of upscale mall, where he recommended a spot for us to have a good Irish meal and a Guinness. When you are in Ireland, you must have a Guiness on tap (assuming it is a “good” tap) – we learned in Dublin a few year back that if the locals are drinking the Guiness, the tap is “good.” If they are not drinking it, don’t order it). 🙂 The fish & chips were good and the beer was smooth and cold. Its funny. I am not a huge beer drinker. And I am even less a dark beer drinker. But for whatever reason, I find the Guinness on tap in Ireland to be imminently drinkable. The little bar/restaurant was otherwise unremarkable, but I was taken by the one immediately adjacent to it that we passed as we headed out to our next destination.
Belfast, Northern Ireland [Copyright Andy Richards 2023 All Rights Reserved]AT THIS point, we were only a few city blocks from the Belfast inner harbor area, and the site of The Titanic Experience, Belfast’s tribute museum to the Titanic. I find these places to often be kind of a commercialized, tourist site, designed as much as anything, to make money. I don’t think The Titanic Experience was any exception. Back in 2019, we did the Titanic Museum in Cobh, Ireland (the first stop of the ship after it departed Southampton, England, with its full complement of passengers. And the last stop before it sank. At time, it was known as Queenstown (but was eventually changed back to Cobh). It was much smaller and less “high-tech.” And I liked it much better. But we were there. Ironically enough, on a cruise. 🙂
Belfast, Northern Ireland [Copyright Andy Richards 2023 All Rights Reserved]I ENJOYED the walk to the pier. There are some (not atypical) downtown streets and buildings that I found photogenic. I worked hard to try to get the perspective completely corrected on the clock tower steeple. You can see I wasn’t entirely successful.
The Big Fish Belfast, Northern Ireland [Copyright Andy Richards 2023 All Rights Reserved]ALSO, LIKE many cities, Belfast has its own unique – even quirky elements. The River Lagan empties into Belfast harbor. The drydock where the Titanic was built and eventually launched is in the tidal portion of this river, and the Titanic Experience sits at the mouth. Like so many industrial cities, polLution hit the river hard over the years. Then, in more recent times, the efforts to clean it up have become successful. In 1999, The Big Fish sculpture was commissioned and built to celebrate the return of the Salmon to the river. Each tiled mosaic contains information about Belfast History. The fish is often used in tourism promotions for Northern Ireland and Belfast. The fish is known locally, as “Pat, the fish.” The reason for this is that it apparently is a tradition for folks from the Orkney Islands to come and pat the fish sculpture. It is also said that kissing the fish will give you good luck. I didn’t. Nor (unfamilar with that custom at the time) did I pat it. 🙂
THE AREA around this waterfront, known as Donegal Quay, has become a hub of activity, with bars and restaurants and shops along the way. On the way to the exhibit is a drydocked SS Nomadic model. The Nomadic. Served as a tender to White Star Passenger/Cruise ships Titanic and Olympic in the Cherbourg, France Harbor where they were too big to dock. It is the only White Star Line ship remaining in existence today (and was designed by the same person who designed the Titanic). I made a few shots of it. For the one here, I made a series of vertical, overlapping shots, and then used Photoshop to combine them into a panoramic. It came out surprisingly well, considering I used my 20mp m4/3 Olympus camera – handheld – to make the shots. Though it looks rather large in the photo, it is really tiny in comparison to the Titanic.
SS Nomadic with “The Titanic Experience” in the background Belfast, Northern Ireland [Copyright Andy Richards 2023 All Rights Reserved]COLOR, AS I have often said, attracts my “photographic eye.” The orange brick of the theatre building was one of those subjects that caught my eye.
Belfast, Northern Ireland [Copyright Andy Richards 2023 All Rights Reserved]I DID enjoy the time spent in the Titanic Experience exhibit. But I am certain that I was in and out long before the other 3 that were with me. The little “mini-theatre,” you-tube-like exhibits, especially arranged in no real orderly way, just doesn’t float my boat. I am well-aware that it is kind of the avant-garde way to present this stuff these days, and that many, many people disagree with my assessment. But it wasn’t for me. I did take a number of cell phone photos while walking around. Maybe someday I’ll be motivated to re-visit them. Not right now. I also thought they did a couple things that made the area less “accessible.” When we stopped here briefly back in 2019, though the exhibit had opened back in 2012, it did not appear to be open at the time, and there was not much going on around the area. We were able to park and walk over to the actual drydock and the pumping station and building. I believe that today the only way to see them is on their “tram-ride” that is part of the exhibit. I skipped that. I will say, though, that the building itself is architecturally unique and impressive. And difficult to photograph, though I took a shot at it.
The Titanic Experience Belfast, Northern Ireland [Copyright Andy Richards 2023 All Rights Reserved]IT WAS a long, but enjoyable and eventful day. And we loved the warmth! We found a cab at the stand immediately in front of The Titanic Experience and were back at the ship ganway in just 10 minutes. We enjoyed the sun, and Bruce and I had our first cigar in many days where we sat in the sun and weren’t huddled out of the wind with blankets. It was a nice day. And, we were looking forward to tomorrow, our Beatles Tour, and whatever else Liverpool, England might have in store for us.
One of several drydock operations in Belfast Harbor Belfast, Northern Ireland [Copyright Andy Richards 2023 All Rights Reserved]
🙂
LightCentric Photography Blog 
One thought on “Belfast Again; This time we learned about “The Troubles””