Venice, Italy 2022 [Copyright Andy Richards 2022 All Rights Reserved]NOVEMBER MARKED our 3rd Celebrity Cruise for 2022, and our 4th trip to Europe. Following up on a brief Western Caribbean cruise, then Portugal by land, and then the Baltic region, this one was a relatively familiar trip covering (important) parts of Italy, France and Spain. We had visited the majority of our destinations over the years, mostly with previous cruises on Celebrity and Princess. This one was a bit extended, as we were traveling with some folks who had not done most of the spots and wanted to spend time in a couple of major places in Italy (Rome and Venice). So, we started in Rome, spending three nights in a VRBO, and covering some of Rome’s coolest features.
Roman Colosseum Rome, Italy [Copyright Andy Richards 2022 All Rights Reserved]YOU CANNOT really “see” any major city in 2-3 days (much less a one-day port stop). So, we (they) chose their most important destinations, beginning with a 3-hour drive around by our airport pickup service and driver. This part was fun for us as the driver actually took us to a few points of interest that we had not seen before in our other couple visits to Rome. This was the first time we had spent more than a day there. The first place he took us was to one of Rome’s many fountains, the Fontana Del’ Acquia Paola. We learned that Rome is a city of fountains which were – generally – built at the terminus of an aqueduct. Rome’s most world-famous fountain is the Trevi Fountain, in the center of the old city. But the Fontana Del’ Acquia Paola was built more than 100 years earlier, and according to our driver, is considered by the Romans to be the most beautiful and impressive of all the fountains of Rome. I have read that it is colorfully lit at night, but we did not get there except during the daylight hours. Named for Pope Paul V, the fountain was built in 1612. Built on a hill on the west side of the Tiber River, there is a steep drop and wall just across the cobblestone street in front of the fountain, making photographic perspective a real challenge. I stood on a bench on the wall to get additional height, by you can see by the image that I still needed to do substantial “work” in Photoshop’s Perspective correction tools.
Fontana Del’ Acquia Paula Rome, Italy [Copyright Andy Richards 2022 All Rights Reserved]FOR PERSPECTIVE, our driver did take us to the Trevi Fountain. The contrast was remarkable. As you can see from the image above, the Fontana Del’ Acquia was nearly devoid of people. The Trevi fountain, on the other hand, was totally mobbed. We have been there twice before. The first trip in 2013 was nearly as crowded. On our second trip in 2015, the fountain was closed for refurbishing. Even then, there was a pretty good crowd of viewers. Getting a shot of the Trevi during the day is virtually impossible. All my images either show close up views of parts of the fountain, or the large crowds in front of it. I did not even bother to make a shot this trip. We essentially did a drive-by of the Colosseum, letting our driver know that we had a Colosseum tour scheduled for the next day.
Piazza Del Popolo Rome, Italy [Copyright Andy Richards 2022 All Rights Reserved]ABOUT MID-afternoon, our driver made his way to our VRBO, which was just a short walk off of the very popular and beautiful, Piazza del Popolo (which our driver said translates in English roughly to “People’s Square”). The piazza essentially faces south, and there are 3 streets that fan out in a trident from the twin churches as the south end of the plaza and head south. Down each of those streets are restaurants, hotels, and shopping. It was pretty bustling about a block south. But our street was comparatively quiet. We weren’t able to get into the VRBO for about another hour, so our driver found us a small restaurant just a few steps away that would allow us to bring our luggage in and have some lunch. There, I started my pasta odyssey. For each of the nights in Rome, I had pasta for my main meal. In each case it was the best pasta I can remember. This first afternoon, we were in a restaurant called Dal Pollarolo 1936. On the Google map is shows moderate pricing ($$). The carbonara was the best I have ever had. Everybody who tried a taste agreed. One of our travel mates – Bobbie – was a bit of a carbonara afficionado (I am told she makes a very good carbonara herself) and tried (unsuccessfully) to duplicate it in other restaurants. The second day, we walked over to another restaurant near the southeast edge of the piazza: Canova Piazza Del Popolo (no cost information on Google, but equivalent to the first day), I had a pepper/cheese pasta that was “to die for.” Perhaps my favorite meal of the entire 18-day trip! The next day, in the same spot, we were somewhere in the city, having visited some of the catacombs, and stopped on the street. I don’t remember the name of the place. I had Pesto pasta. Very good, but not as good as the first two. I was so “on a pasta roll,” that I had pasta the first night on the ship, too. Again, though good, not even close to those first two dishes!
The Twin Churches of Santa Maria dei Miracola and Santa Maria in Montesanto Piazza Del Popolo Rome, Italy [Copyright Andy Richards 2022 All Rights Reserved]THE VRBO was great except for one feature. There were three bedrooms and 3 baths – which was just right for our group. There was a very nice balcony, which gave Clay and me a nice place to smoke cigars in the afternoon/evenings. We found a nice little liquor store and a great little deli type store (selling meats, cheeses and bread), both just steps away from the VRBO. I would give it 5 stars, except for one design feature. In the two ensuite bathrooms, the showers were small to the extreme. It was like showering in a wardrobe closet. You could hardly turn around and seemed wedged up against the wall or the shower door. That is a design feature. I know they are noted for less ostentatious and smaller rooms in Europe, and we are o.k. with that. But these were the smallest showers we have ever experienced. Coupled with the lack of any shelves in either the shower or around the sink areas, this would cause me to lower by a star. Oh well. “First World problems.” 🙂
Piazza Del Popolo Rome, Italy [Copyright Andy Richards 2022 All Rights Reserved]AS IS my custom, I was up early the next morning, and out on the Piazza Del Popolo, with my camera. When our driver dropped us off the day before, he gave us a brief rundown on the twin churches, which I believe are the only ones like it in the world. I tried to get a lower, wide-angle perspective, with the twilight sun just beginning to rise in the background, coloring the sky nicely. In the middle of the piazza there is an obelisk, surrounded by some pretty fountains. The piazza is very large and open, and as you can see, already popular even early in the morning. This was said to be the first thing travelers to Rome saw as they approached the city. Even with my 9-18m (18-36 35mm equivalent) lens, the height of the obelisk and the ground-level shooting position, leaves perspective challenges. The churches were originally planned to be identical (apparently in the neoclassic style). They were started in the late 1600’s by architect Carlo Rainaldi, but ultimately completed by Bernini and Carlo Fontana. Ultimately, the two churches are not identical in their details, though both similar and symmetrical in Baroque style. In any event, an impressive sight and a wonderful photographic opportunity. I think it might ultimately photograph well as dusk, also, with the sun lighting the churches.
The Vatican Grand Hallway; 2015 [Copyright Andy Richards 2015 All Rights Reserved]FOR THIS day, we had a private, early Vatican Tour scheduled. In 2015, with our friends Paul and Linda, we had a similar tour during the day we were on shore in Rome. Logistics for that tour meant getting off our ship and getting transportation the hour plus to Rome. This made the tour time later in the day. The result was some very large crowds in parts of the Vatican, which was not optimal for either photography or viewing. You can see what we faced in the image above. At the time, I asked our guide if there was a “better” time to come. Her response wasn’t encouraging. She noted that any time the Vatican is open, this was more or less what you got. Remember, this was pre-Pandemic. Fast forward to 2022, a relatively early morning appointment, and (my opinion) a world still coming to grips with a worldwide shutdown less than 2 years behind us, and the photo below is the result. While not the best of reasons, it certainly made for a much more meaningful, leisurely, and photographically conducive experience. As the image of the artwork below demonstrates, we had a clear view to the walls, with art, tapestry, sculptures and frescos. These shots wouldn’t have been possible in 2015.
Vatican Grand Hallway – 2022 [Copyright Andy Richards 2022 All Rights Reserved]WE ALSO were able to walk right into the Sistine Chapel (contrasted with a 30-minute standing wait on the stairway down in 2015). It was still fairly crowded in the chapel but we had the cool experience of having one of the resident priests come in and say a prayer while we were in there.
Artwork in the Vatican [Copyright Andy Richards 2022 All Rights Reserved]OUR FINAL piece of the Vatican was St. Peter’s Basilica. It is impressive, with mosaics, tile floors, artistry on the walls and ceilings, stained glass and more. The altar in the center of the cathedral was perhaps the most impressive to me. Build with 4 uniquely shaped columns, it stands many feet tall. The columns are made from solid brass (the exterior surfaces) and filled with solid metal in the centers. We didn’t really spend any time outdoors this trip, as it was a rainy, drizzly day. All in all, though, I thought a better experience than our prior visit. I was glad we did it.
St. Peter’s Cathedral Vatican [Copyright Andy Richards 2022 All Rights Reserved]IOFTEN mention churches, cathedrals, and basilicas, on the blog. More than once while writing I have wondered about the differences. Each is the designation of a Christian house of worship. In Ancient times, we are mainly speaking of Roman Catholic, Orthodox and Anglican churches. In very much lay terms, here is a quick primer. “Church,” is really a generic term for house of worship. It encompasses all of the other terms. A Cathedral is a Christian Church that is the seat of the bishop. A church can be famous, very important, even a basilica, and not be a Cathedral, if it is not the Bishop’s seat. A Basilica is a church that is so designated by the Pope, generally as an important church for various purposes and reasons. Once the “basilica” designation has been made, it is permanent cannot be removed, perhaps making the designation the highest hierarchical designation.
St. Peter’s Cathedral Vatican [Copyright Andy Richards 2022 All Rights Reserved]PARTLY EXPECTING the same crowds, and knowing it was rainy, I did not carry my Olympus rig with me that day but opted to carry just my smartphone. All the images from that day at the Vatican are made with my Samsung, S21. I continue to be impressed by its ability to make indoor photographs.
Roman Forum from Palatine Hill Rome, Italy [Copyright Andy Richards 2015 All Rights Reserved]THE FOLLOWING day we had a 4-hour tour of the Roman Forum and the Colosseum scheduled. We had seen the forum from the high distance somewhere on Palatine Hill during our driving tour of Rome in 2015. This morning, our driver picked us up and then dropped us off at the beginning of the Forum, in the center of the city of ancient Rome, where we walked the entire length, on our way to the entrance to the Colosseum. In context, “forum” means the same thing as “square.” A space about 3 football fields long and about 550 feet wide, the Roman Forum was essentially the center of early Roman civilization and housed political bodies, churches, triumphal arches and courts. Unlike most other classic Roman fora, which were built to a plan of sorts, (and much like many of our modern U.S. cities), there wasn’t a grand design for the city center of ancient Rome. Named for Rome’s first king, Romulus, the forum developed naturally over several centuries. There is evidence predating Roman presence as far back as 1200 B.C. The center of everyday life in Rome for centuries, the site is a valley between two hills (Capitolene and Velian Hills). Originally a swampy low area, the site was drained in the 7th Century, B.C., and building commenced there. But because of this geographic setting, over the centuries, silts seeped back in from the Tiber River, creating many layers of ancient ruins that were excavated in later years. During many of its up and down periods, much of the construction materials used in original construction were “scavenged,” taken away and used to build other sites, often by plunderers over the years. This means that unfortunately, a lot of the original materials that in modern days we try to so carefully preserve, are no longer there.
Temple of Romulus Roman Forum Rome, Italy [Copyright Andy Richards 2022 All Rights Reserved]RELENTLESS AND ongoing silt deposits also means that excavation reveals several different levels or layers of development over the centuries. I especially liked the Temple of Romulus, where our guide told us that at one time, the green door was just a few steps about street level, with a small set of steps up to it – the entrance to the Temple. That is a lot of silt. 🙂
Site of the original Senate Rome, Italy [Copyright Andy Richards 2022 All Rights Reserved]THE ORIGINAL Senate and Republican form of government originated here, in this center of Roman civilization. It was also the place where triumphal marches were held as the Romans conquered other places. It was traditional to construct a triumphal arch for each conquest. You can see the arch at the entrance of what was the original Senate. There is also another well-preserved arch toward the southern part of the forum, just before leaving the area and approaching the Colosseum.
Triumphal Arch Roman Forum Rome, Italy [Copyright Andy Richards 2022 All Rights Reserved]OUR LAST venue for the tour was the Roman Colosseum. We had been there before in 2015, but our travel mates had not – and it was high on their desired list. And every visit to one of these locations is a bit different, often with different information. In in my case, a different camera and lens, allowing me to make wider angle images of the massive facility. We learned a lot about the construction of the facility, as well as the activities therein. Their “civilized” activity was much more violent and unforgiving than our society today. At least the part that is authorized. What a different world we live in today. But we do, have some pretty uncivilized and violent things that happen in our world that the inhabitants of those time could not imagine.
Seats of the Noblemen Roman Colosseum Rome, Italy [Copyright Andy Richards 2022 All Rights ReservedCONSTRUCTION OF the Roman Colosseum is impressive and detailed. The large, outside walls, (more than 3 stories high) are stabilized by “flying buttresses.” There were “box” type areas (similar to the current sky boxes in today’s modern sports stadiums), and specially marked seating for people of “noble” status (the alternating white and brown stone). Completed in about 80 A.D., it is said to be the largest amphitheater ever built (and the largest still standing today). Its maximum capacity was 80,000. For comparison, the largest U.S. football stadium is the University of Michigan Stadium, with a seating capacity of just over 107,000. Several others are very close to that. Saying the largest ever built might be taking some liberty, but remember, this was a couple thousand years ago. And there is a (however nuanced) difference between an amphitheater (an open-air theater which can be viewed from all around) and a stadium, which appears to limit its meaning to an arena dedicated to sports (in ancient times, a stadium was a horse racing track). Modern stadiums, of course, can also be roofed or enclosed. “Amphitheater,” by the way, is roughly translated “both sides,” and therefore differs from “theater,” in that the viewing can be all around the action, versus a front-on only view in a theater.
Buttressed Walls Roman Colosseum Rome, Italy [Copyright Andy Richards 2022 All Rights Reserved]SURE ENOUGH, there is a Triumphal Arch at the entrance to the Colosseum. We finished our tour, and went to lunch back near the Piazza Popolo. Later that afternoon, after a rest, I walked down to the deli store and bought an assortment of meats, cheese and bread. We had picked up a bottle of wine earlier, and some bourbon. We pretty much stayed-in this night. The next day we would be transported to Civitavecchia, the seaport for Rome, about an hour and 15 minutes away, to board the Celebrity Edge cruise ship.
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