Copyright Andy Richards 2022
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CINQUE TERRE. Translated (roughly) as “Five Lands.” This stretch of 5 small Italian terraced Villages along the Italian seacoast in the far northeast corner of the Mediterranean Sea (known at the Ligurian Seas), is perhaps the most iconic – and certainly photogenic – of Italian seacoast villages. In the Fall of 2019, right before the world shut down for nearly 2 years, we cruised for at least the third time in the Mediterranean. This cruise focused on Spain and the Italian Riviera. Starting in Barcelona (a city we love to visit for a few days before and after a cruise), we made a stop in Palma de Mallorca, before heading over to the riviera. Perhaps the most anticipated stop of this cruise, though, was Cinque Terre. There are some negatives to reaching this beautiful area of Italy via cruise ship. But since cruising is the only way I have, so far, been able to visit, I have tried to make the best of it. These villages date back to the 11th century as mostly fishing villages, with some small-scale agriculture (mostly olives and grapes growing on terraced plots). Originally part of the kingdom of Genoa, today Cinque Terre is part of the Province of Liguria. Interestingly, the colorfully painted buildings on the hillsides were conceived sometime in the 1970’s as part of the tourist culture. As a photographer, I am glad they did that. 🙂
Copyright Andy Richards 2022
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THE FIRST visit wasn’t as good as I had anticipated. It was our first time in the area. This area of coastline is accessed perhaps most easily from La Spezia, which has a deep-water port and has become a favorite stop for Celebrity Cruise Ships. The train station is a 25-minute walk (or a short, 5-minute taxi ride) from the port. From there, you can purchase a day pass (currently 18 Euros) to ride the train which makes stops between the 5 villages. Distances are very short, and the rides vary from about 5 – 15 minutes between villages. We joined some new friends from the ship for this day, which turned out to be cloudy, with off and on rain. Unfortunately, we didn’t know about the train system, and we ended up taking a cab all the way to Manarola. Inaccessible by motor vehicle, we were dropped off at a parking area from the main road high above the village. The walk down was steep and rather long. We later learned that the train stations were all generally in the central parts of the villages (we took one of them back to the port in La Spezia that day). The combination of no real planning and questionable weather rendered “best I could” photos. Certainly not what I had imagined. My blog in 2019 reflects that “best I could do” approach.
(View from up top at the Cemetery)
Copyright Andy Richards 2022
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WHEN THE opportunity to revisit this photographically amazing place arose with a “repeat” cruise stop in La Spezia in 2022, I approached it with renewed anticipation. This time I spent a few hours researching the entire area, scouring the internet for photographic accounts, tips and any other insights I could find. My research suggested that, of the 5 villages, 3 of them suited my photographic pursuit, and while they may well be worth visiting, trying to see and photograph all 5 villages in a single day was too ambitious. I concentrated on the 3, one of which (Manarola) I had already seen. From La Spezia to the northwest, Riomaggiore, Manarolo, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso make up the 5 villages. Riomaggiore, Manarolo, and Vernazza are the 3 I wanted to photograph (and if I only had time for 2, a retake of Manarolo; and Riomaggiore).
(approaching from the rail station above the harbor)
Copyright Andy Richards 2022
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TAKING ADVANTAGE of the earliest light possible, I got off the train in Riomaggiore. My memory of Manarolo from 3 years back had me thinking it was an easy stroll downhill to the seaport and center of the village. I was a bit surprised to find the climb down from the train station in Riomaggiore more rigorous than in Manarola. Fortunately, it was downhill. I found a back or side approach instead of the main road, and ended up taking a steep series of back stairs down. It led to an interesting approach to the main village. After shooting here for at least an hour, I climbed up (taking the main street this time) and re-boarded the train, bound for Manarolo. There, I made a very steep climb up to a high viewpoint I had researched. It was physically the most rigorous walking I had done since Lisbon, earlier that year. As I say below, in spite of some rather enthusiastic recommendations from other photographers, I personally don’t think it was worth the effort (as a photographic opportunity, at least). Later, I met up with my wife and the other 2 couples that were with us (they rode the train directly to Manarola, on my recommendation).
Copyright Andy Richards 2022
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AFTER SPENDING some time there, 4 of us headed for Vernazza, with the other couple returned to the ship. I am glad I saw all three of these villages this trip. While there are certainly similarities, they all had their own character, and all photographed differently. The only thing I would like to do differently is spend 2-3 days actually staying in one or more of these villages overnight, in order to take advantage of early and late light and to photograph them at night with the buildings lit up. Maybe someday.
(I found a “back” way down)
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MY OWN photographic observations may differ from the usual commentary by other photographers. Having done a fair amount of research, I knew of several photographic viewpoints that have been recommended by other photographers. This is particularly true in Manarola, thought to be the most picturesque of the 3 I chose. I am not sure I agree with that sentiment either. I would find it hard to choose a clear “winner” between the 3 – and would certainly recommend you see all three and arrive at your own conclusions. But I will say this – and this is consistent among all 3 villages in my view. The best shot for each is, I believe after doing some empirical research, from the “conventional” spot. The good news here is that none of them are particularly difficult or strenuous to achieve.
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IN RIOMAGGIORE, I think the best shot is the conventional shot from up the stairs on to the left as you face the harbor. There is a landing near the top, just below the boat tour departure point that is popular and crowded. But if you are patient, it is very easy to get set up along the wall and make your shot. Prior research suggested that I scramble out onto the rocks below the village on the harbor jetty. I didn’t really have proper footwear for this, and it is a potentially treacherous scramble (do not even attempt it if tide is high and/or waves are washing up onto the rocks). I did climb out part-way, but a fall could have been very bad (and much as I hate to admit it, at plus 65, I am not as “spry” as I once was). I concluded that the perspective wasn’t worth the risk.
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PART OF the issue is that these shots call for a wide-angle lens (in my opinion) to get the full sweep of the harbors and the buildings up the hills in the backgrounds. This means that you are dealing with perspective distortion when shooting from below. The better (and thankfully safer and easier) viewpoints get you up higher, more level with the scene, allowing for better perspective composition (and easier post-processing correction). If – like me – you like to read and research as much as you can about your shooting destinations, you will read about some of these “better” alternatives for shooting. I tried most of them. My advice. Don’t worry about them. Get to the conventional locations when the light and conditions are best. If you have lots of time to spend, try some other perspectives. Unique perspectives are always a welcome alternative. But in this case, you will bet great, iconic shots from the conventional locations. My two cents. 🙂
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ON MY first visit to Manarola I only made shots from the conventional viewpoint, along the trail leading north out of town. It is probably the easiest such spot to reach of the 3 villages. Which is partly why it is the most popular (as I note below, I think another reason is that it really is the best photographic perspective from which to shoot the village and the harbor). The trail starts at the harbor and is essentially level from there. No heavy lifting to reach it. As you stand in the center of the village, you can also see a second, higher path (both have railings), which leads to a couple restaurants above the main trail and also affords a nice view and perspective. You have to climb some stairs to get to this higher view, but nothing overly strenuous. The perspective from the upper trail is only slightly higher and the difference marginal.
The best shot for each is, I believe after doing some empirical research, from the “conventional” spot
WHEN I researched Manarolo, I also read about a view from the cemetery which is higher above. I didn’t get there. Returning to my research 3 years later, it seemed that several photographers urged making the walk up to the cemetery for a “better” view. It certainly is a much higher view. But I will argue that it not only is not “better.” It is not as good. The high up perspective is different, but difficult to get the kind of “tight” composition I like. And the foreground is kind of scrubby for my taste (obviously, I did get there this second time). My research also seemed to suggest that it was an “easy walk” up to the Cemetary. Not! The cemetery is set up into some cliffs high above the village. It is a steep climb up several sets of steps and a couple of substantial grades. And it is a pretty good distance. It was the most rigorous workout of 2022 (so far 🙂 ) for me! Is it worth it? I guess you will have to see for yourself if you are adventurous. My images will tell part of the story. I don’t think it is nearly as nice a shot of the village as the ones I made from the conventional viewpoint. If you are not in good shape, I recommend you don’t bother. If you like to hike, and are in decent shape, in fairness, I have to say that the view from up there (just not photographically) is pretty impressive.
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THAT LEFT Vernazza. I had ruled the other two (Corniglia and Monterosso) out for a couple reasons. Monterosso was at the furthest end of the line. It appears to be more of a beach town, and much flatter than the others. I love beaches and old beach towns and suppose I will visit it someday if things align. But I have seen and photographed my share of beach towns (and will have many more opportunities in the future). Corniglia – unlike the other 4 – is not a seaport but is set further up into the hills. While again, perhaps photogenic in its own right, the lack of a harbor backdrop and boats, appealed to me the least of the 5 villages. I suspect that had I been on my own, I might have at least jumped off the train at these two places. But by the time we went to Vernazza, I had met up with others from our group. In the interest of time (among other considerations), these two villages were not on the agenda.
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WHILE QUITE different from the first, two, Vernazza didn’t disappoint. It seemed a bit less rustic to me, and a bit more touristy. But there was no lack of boats and a colorful harbor and port area, which made for some nice shots.
Italy
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LightCentric Photography Blog 
Andy, thanks for the Cinque Terre retrospective. I have some not-so-fond memories of our visit in May 2005. We were traveling with another couple and took the train to Monterosso and planned to hike back through all five villages. Unfortunately, the area was experiencing a heat wave and temperatures were well above 90F. By the time we reached the second or third village on the hike back, most of us were sweaty and tired of being pushed off the path by groups of aggressive, pole-wielding hikers from a European country I won’t name. All but one of us decided to take the train the rest of the way back. The fourth person was determined to hike the rest of the way. The three of us reached the train terminal in La Spezia and waited for the hiker. The last train arrived and he was nowhere to be seen. The parking garage was closing at 5pm. Eventually he showed up but by then the garage was closed and we were stuck in La Spezia without our passports and no luggage. We walked around until we found a hotel which had one room with four bunk beds available and no A/C (did I mention there was a heat wave?) and let us have the room despite lack of passports. The four of us — sticky from the hot day — tried to sleep with windows open as the garbage trucks and other street noises ricocheted around the room all night. After a very long night, the parking garage opened and we were able to retrieve our car and head back to Firenze to resume our trip. Someday I’d love to return under better conditions!
Thanks, Steve, as always for reading here. I enjoy a good walk through a city or to a photo-destination, but have never been a hiker, just for the sake of hiking. That trail, while only around 5 miles, feels MUCH longer. I have walked parts of it (again enroute to a specific vantage point for my photography), and it is rugged, steep in places, and at times very narrow. The views are pretty spectacular. I would most certainly not be hiking in those kinds of temperatures though. 🙂 That whole “adventure” sounds like a nightmare.
From what I have been able to determine, there are three different ways I would approach Cinque Terre. The first is the way I have done so -off a cruise ship. It has its limitations (which are probably only obvious to experienced photographers). You have to “dance” with the weather you get that day. You have very limited possibilities to get the really sweet light on either end of the day and virtually none to shoot at night. My second and preferred way would be to spend an overnight or two in one or more of the cities, with a specific plan to shoot at sunrise and probably more compelling: sunset, and at night. I have seen some shots of the Manarola harbor from out on the trail (a very short walk from the village) at night with the buildings on the mountainside lit up and reflecting in the harbor. Would love to try my hand at that. It is a trip that would have to be more or less dedicated to the area, and dedicated to photography. The person I travel most with (and am married to 🙂 ) would have ZERO interest in that trip, so I either need to go it alone, or persuade one of my like minded buddies, to join me. Pretty expensive trip for a very compact agenda. Maybe some day. The last way would be to shoot from the water. By boat. Would probably be hardest to arrange – but maybe during the 2-3 day trip I dreamed about above. 🙂
Best,